Not All Heroes Wear Capes – Some Serve Cookies at Midnight
A Rocky Mountaineer Rail Adventure
We boarded the Rocky Mountaineer in Banff, bleary-eyed but buzzing. It was a crisp 7am start – the kind that smells of pine, excitement, and fresh hotel coffee. This was the beginning of the final land leg of our 21-day Travelmarvel Reflection of the Rockies and Alaska Cruise journey. Two days by rail through Canada’s epic landscapes – the Rocky Mountains, Columbia Mountains, and beyond to Vancouver. What could possibly go wrong?
Spoiler: plenty. But also, everything went right.
Narelle & Doug enjoying an early beverage
Silverleaf on Rocky Mountaineer Rail
SilverLeaf vs GoldLeaf – What’s the Difference?
Our group was divided between GoldLeaf and SilverLeaf. Both were brilliant, but the differences are worth knowing.
GoldLeaf offers a two-level dome carriage with panoramic windows, an elegant downstairs dining room, and an open-air viewing platform.
SilverLeaf, where Doug and I sat this time, is a single-level coach with oversized windows and meals served at your seat. It’s still luxurious – just slightly less grand. Having previously travelled in GoldLeaf, we can confirm: both are a treat.
From the moment we boarded, drinks flowed freely – and alcoholic options from 9:30am kept the spirits high. Breakfast and lunch were freshly prepared onboard, featuring local ingredients and served with a side of sweeping mountain vistas.
Mountains, Tunnels, and Wildlife Galore
The route took us through the iconic Spiral Tunnels, an engineering marvel designed to help trains safely descend steep mountain grades. We rumbled past avalanche sheds, glacial rivers, rugged ridgelines, and roaring creeks — often with rafters paddling alongside.
One of the most striking moments came as we passed through Hell’s Gate in the Fraser Canyon — a dramatic narrowing of the river where the water roars through a gorge at twice the volume of Niagara Falls. It’s also home to the fascinating salmon ladders, built to help millions of migrating salmon bypass this otherwise impassable stretch each year. Seeing this powerful mix of natural force and human ingenuity from the comfort of the train was unforgettable.
A small black bear wandered into view early on, followed by longhorn sheep, goats, and nesting eagles. Even a pair of beavers made an appearance, despite usually being nocturnal.
As we drew closer to Vancouver, alpine forests gave way to a semi-arid desert landscape. It felt like Mother Nature was showing off.
Trouble on the Tracks – But Not in Our Carriage
Things began to slow down. Literally.
Freight trains have priority on this line, and we often pulled over to let them pass. But these delays brought unexpected joys – long chats, deeper storytelling from the crew, and chance wildlife sightings we’d have missed had we been speeding past. One stop was even due to a railway foreman needing to clear rockfalls from the track.
What we didn’t realise was that one of the GoldLeaf carriages had a mechanical issue. Something to do with wheel bearings – each time an alarm went off, the crew had to manually check it. Instead of arriving in Kamloops by 6–8pm, we rolled in around 11pm.
But here’s the thing: no one complained.
The hospitality team onboard were flawless – keeping us updated, cracking jokes, and constantly topping up drinks. As the evening stretched on, they appeared with freshly baked cookies and Baileys. That moment? Magic. Laughter echoed through the carriage, tired eyes twinkled, and any sense of frustration melted away.
Kamloops isn’t known for its nightlife – and honestly, had we arrived on time, we’d have been scavenging for takeaway. The onboard meal had been arranged in anticipation of our delay. RMR thought of everything.
Enter the Banana Bandit: How Our Tour Manager Saved the Vibe
Just as fatigue threatened to set in, our Travelmarvel Tour Manager Ben Direen stepped in. Having once been a Rocky Mountaineer host, he not only knew the crew – he knew how to lift a train carriage full of tired travellers.
First, he pitched in with the crew, clearing trays, crockery and cutlery. Then he turned entertainer.
Ben Direen, (Travelmarvel Tour Director), the Banana Bandit, aka Billy Miner.
Dressed as a train bandit (armed with a banana for a gun), he delivered the tale of Billy Miner, the “Gentleman Bandit” who robbed Canadian trains and stagecoaches with an almost theatrical politeness. His delivery? Flawless. The laughter was instant.
But Ben didn’t stop there.
He invited us into a spontaneous film pitch based on a story we’d just heard from the Rocky Mountaineer team — about British settlers tricked into buying arid land outside Kamloops, misled by promotional photos of the fertile Okanagan. They brought tennis courts, classical musicians, and optimism — until World War I called nearly all the men back to Europe. A flood later decimated the area, and the community disappeared. Sad, yes — but Ben brought it to life, then challenged us to cast the movie version on the spot.
He seamlessly tied this in with a local trivia gem: British Columbia is the third-largest film production hub in North America, behind only Los Angeles and New York. Vancouver and surrounding BC have stood in for everywhere from Tokyo to New York in major productions. He rattled off titles like Deadpool (Ryan Reynolds), The Twilight Saga (Kristen Stewart, Robert Pattinson), The Revenant (Leonardo DiCaprio), Juno, X-Men, and dozens more — all filmed in BC’s diverse landscapes.
He even gave us a hilarious breakdown of the Hallmark movie formula – the hardworking city girl who returns to her hometown, breaks up with her inattentive fiancé, and reconnects with a flannel-wearing childhood flame. You know the type. You’ve watched three.
We were in stitches.
Our Unsung Legends: The People Who Made It
So, who were the heroes of our journey? Let’s give credit where it’s due:
Courtney (RMR) and Ben Direen (Travelmarvel)
The onboard RMR hosts, who doubled as servers, storytellers, comedians, and morale-boosters, and who somehow still had energy to offer us Baileys and cookies at midnight.
The RMR engineers, who worked tirelessly behind the scenes, on the train, throughout the night and well into the next day, to ensure our safety and eventually remove the faulty carriage with precision and care.
Ben, our Travelmarvel guide, who stepped up, lightened the mood, supported the RMR crew, and reminded us that humour is just as essential as logistics when plans go awry.
And the travellers, ourselves included, who leaned into the journey; laughing, relaxing, watching beavers in the daylight, and soaking in landscapes that deserved to be lingered over.
And let’s be honest, compared to the pioneers of the past, whose stories of sacrifice and resilience we’d heard woven throughout our journey, we had it easy. No floods, no war, no arid farmland sold under false pretences. Just a delay, some unexpected detours, and a few extra hours of storytelling and snacks. Not a bad trade-off.
Final Thoughts: When the Journey Is the Destination
We arrived in Vancouver behind schedule, but ahead in every other way.
That’s the thing about travel — it’s rarely about flawless execution. It’s about the stories, the people, and how you choose to see the unexpected. When things don’t go to plan but somehow become the highlight, that’s when you know you’ve experienced something truly special.
This journey reminded us why group touring can be so powerful. When your travel agent helps you choose the right itinerary, connect with like-minded travellers, and you’re lucky enough to be guided by someone who’s not just a logistics expert but also a natural-born storyteller and entertainer — even delays become memories worth holding onto.
This wasn’t just a scenic train ride.
It was an iconic journey, shared — full of hiccups, humour, heart, and heroes.
About Rocky Mountaineer Journeys
Rocky Mountaineer offers one of the world’s most spectacular rail experiences — travelling in luxury through the breathtaking landscapes of Western Canada. These daylight-only train journeys wind through dramatic mountain passes, glacier-fed rivers, and changing terrain from alpine forests to semi-arid desert.
Journey Options Include:
🚞 First Passage to the West
Travel between Vancouver and Banff or Lake Louise, tracing the historic route that united Canada. This is the route we experienced — full of iconic sites like the Spiral Tunnels, Kicking Horse Pass, and the rugged beauty of the Columbia Mountains.
🚞 Journey Through the Clouds
Travel between Vancouver and Jasper, passing by Mount Robson (the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies), the Pyramid Falls, and along the remote Fraser River.
🚞 Rainforest to Gold Rush
A less-travelled but equally stunning route between Vancouver and Jasper via Whistler and Quesnel, taking you through the Coast Mountains, Cariboo Plateau, and the gold rush history of British Columbia.
🚞 Rockies to the Red Rocks (USA)
A newer route connecting Denver, Colorado to Moab, Utah, showcasing the red rock canyons, wild west scenery, and open desert of the American Southwest.
Why We Chose Travelmarvel
We travelled on the Travelmarvel 21-day Reflection of the Rockies and Alaska Cruise, which includes two unforgettable days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer as part of the land journey. It’s a brilliantly curated experience combining rail, coach, cruise, and cultural storytelling — and you’re guided every step of the way.
Interested in Booking or Learning More?
For your personalised advice on the choosing a Rocky Mountaineer route is right for you.
